NEW DELHI: Over 35 shops were razed by the Varanasi Municipal Corporation (VMC) and Public Works Department (PWD) in the bustling Lanka area on June 17. Among the demolished establishments were the iconic food joints — Pahalwan Lassi and Chachi ki Kachori, cherished by generations of Banarasis and tourists for their local culinary flavors.
The action, officials claimed, was carried out to facilitate road widening and anti-encroachment measures.
Pahalwan Lassi, a 70-year-old establishment, was revered for its thick, kulhad-served lassi and its nostalgic charm. Its neighboring shop, Chachi ki Kachori, was equally popular for spicy kachoris and vegetable sabzi served early in the morning, often selling out before noon.
Both eateries were embedded in the cultural identity of Varanasi, frequently recommended by food lovers and travel bloggers alike.
According to Varanasi Municipal Corporation officials, the demolition drive was conducted only after notices were issued to the occupants in advance. However, several shopkeepers have alleged that no proper notification or rehabilitation was provided.
Both shops, situated near Lanka Chauraha on BHU Road, were cleared to make way for a four-lane expansion from Lahartara to Bhikharipur Tiraha and Bhelupur’s Vijaya Mall.
Urban authorities justify the move under the Smart City initiative, arguing that widening the Lanka-Ravidas Gate corridor is vital to managing Varanasi’s growing congestion and improving tourism access.
However, urban historians argue that such actions need to balance growth with conservation of the city’s intangible cultural heritage. The incident raises larger questions about the price of progress in India’s oldest living city.
